Threads of Light: My First Week in Nepal During Tihar

I’ve been in Nepal for one week and while I did finally succumb to a nap this afternoon, I’ve ultimately adjusted better than usual to the time change.

I arrived in Kathmandu in time for the Tihar/Swanti festival (somewhat similar to Diwali in India, but not the same). This festival is based on the moon calendar and goes on for five days, with each day having a special meaning. The gods, Yama and Lakshmi are celebrated at this time. Yama is the god of Death and Lakshmi is the god of Prosperity.

On the 3rd day of the festival, shopkeepers in Kathmandu created beautiful rangolis (like mandalas) outside of their shops with different symbols. Originally rangolis were made of powdered calcite or limestone and created in the kitchen to prevent insects. Now they are made with rice powder, synthetic dyes, red brick powder or flowers. From each rangoli, a pathway of mud was drawn inside of the home and lined with diyo oil candles. This allows Lakshmi to find her way inside to bring blessings of prosperity.

The four creatures associated with Yama are celebrated on the first four days: Kaag (crow), Kukur (dog), Gai (cow) and Goru Puja (ox).

I was really happy to walk from Thamel to Boudinath to see the stupa on the third day and passed a temple where a beautiful cow had colorful tika powder and garlands. The stupa is one of my favorite places to visit because I love walking the perimeter and turning the prayer wheels. Each prayer wheel is inscribed with a mantra or auspicious symbol to help us to remember our own divinity and accumulate wisdom that can purify the negativity in us.

It goes much deeper than anything I have any knowledge of, but for me, the act of walking around the stupa while turning the wheels brings some peace to my mind. I sent out prayers to my partner, my kids, to Olive, to Palestine and for all the beings on the planet. I’m not sure whether this actually does anything, but knowing that there are hundreds of other people walking around the stupa, sending out similar prayers, helps me to believe that as a species, we do care and we can do better.

A few of the ARP volunteers met up with me at the stupa and we walked to Pashupatinath Temple. We lost our way and a young man directed us through to a steep path along the edge of a chainlink fence. I wasn’t sure that we were actually going the right direction until I saw the smoke from the cremation platforms rising up above the river. We sat on the East side of the river, watching as bodies wrapped in white cloth and marigold flowers were brought to the water to be blessed. Men had their heads shaved as wood was added to the fires and we bought plastic bottles of water from a woman who carried them on her back through the crowd.

That night, I wandered through the Thamel neighborhood of Kathmandu, trying to avoid stepping on the rangolis, while I looked for a dress to bring to the clinic. Another volunteer and I ate some dal bhat on the rooftop restaurant at the Nepalaya hotel. I’ve never seen that view of the city, which was especially beautiful as it was lit up for Tihar.

In the morning, I met up with Tsering Sherpa, Director of GoodHealth Nepal and co-founder of Ska Adventures Trekking Company, for breakfast at the Pumpernickel Bakery. We sat on the top floor chatting about psychology and spirituality. I accidentally poured my shot of espresso into his americano instead of my masala tea. He still still drank his coffee and then loaded us up into a jeep to head out to the village.

I could not wait to meet my new goddaughter, Aavya and as you can see from the pictures, she is absolutely beautiful, as are her parents. At the clinic, Satyamohan and Sushila had a rangoli at the bottom of the stairs with the diyo mustard oil candles welcoming Lakshmi into our living space. Some of the neighborhood children came to sing and dance for us and in return for their dancing, they were presented with a basket full of fruits to choose from.

I am missing my children and especially celebrating Halloween with my 12-year old, as it’s probably the last one that he would still be excited to go trick-or-treating with my tagging along…but thanks to video calling I get to talk to him every couple of days and it’s nice to see his face. My older son is doing well at the University of Oregon and I even got a video call from the dorm, which was awesome.

Watching the city light up, I am struck by the overlap of these worlds—the beginning of my trip here, my kids’ lives back home, and the relationships fostered through my days in Nepal. It's as if each prayer wheel, each flickering candle, and each shared meal weave together something both old and new, something that binds us in care across time and distance. I’m grateful to be a part of it, knowing that even as I miss moments with my own family, I am so privileged to get to be a witness to the daily lives, beauty, and traditions here.